Angela Charron Sewing Corner

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i need help with tacking methods for sewing..... 10pts for best answer!?

i just recently enrolled in online classes for dressmaking and design...everything was going great till i totally got stuck. the instructions and pictures are so confusing. there are so many methods of tacking and each are givin one paragraph on how to do this but its lacking in understandable instructions, i sent my instructor an email but just realized it the weekend, no one will be able to get back to me till monday

my question is....is there any web sites with understandable instructions, maybe photos or video's that help you learn the different methods of tacking for sewing?
thanks so much for you time and help!!

If it's like the books I had back in the day...each one will have the uses mentioned in the paragraph. The reason tacking isn't discussed in much detail is because many of these are obsolete for most modern dressmaking. Many are used for interfacings and modern fusibles work well for most garments. Classic hand basting is still worth learning if one wants to do true couture level dresses, fine tailored suits, and for evening dresses. Here are the important ones and ones you will use the most:

Tailor tacks: that's the little loop that's cut between the layers of fabric. You make a small hole in the paper pattern, do the little tack and cut in the center between the two layers of fabric. This allows you to see important pattern marking on both the right side and wrong side of the fabric. It is far superior to chalk or vanishing marker. Tailor tacks will allow you to make perfectly symmetrical darts, well formed pleats, tucks and gathers, and seams will line up better especially if you tailor tack all notches, circles squares and seam line intersections. Use cheap thread that is easily broken with the fingers...like the five spools for a dollar crap they sell at discount stores. It's best to remove the tacks after the first fitting and before the permanent stitching. It seems time consuming, but it isn't; you have to mark accurately, you can't make up a garment by guessing where darts end or where pockets are attached.

Even and uneven tacking: this is a basting stitch used to sew up for fitting. All the main pieces of a dress will be tacked (basted) together and the client tries on the dress. the hand stitches are easier to snip apart than machine stitches when altering during the first fitting. There are several pulling patterns for uneven tacking, one long and one short then pull the needle, two short and one long and pull the needle, and to long and one short the pull the needle. Two short and one long is the one learned is used in french couture houses, our instructor measured our stitches so the longs were never longer than a quarter inch and the shorts were an exact eighth! In even tacking all the stitches are the same length. Machine basting is faster, but it makes complex alterations on the body more difficult.

Herringbone and diagonal tacking. these are used in fine tailoring and couture dressmaking to attach non-fusible interfacings, tapes, hem braids such as horsehair, and diagonal tacking is the basis for the fine suit tailoring technique of pad-stitching lapels. While most modern interfacings are fusible and most work as well as or better than non-fusibles in almost all applications - these two stitches are still best when making suits using classic fine tailoring methods. Hair canvas interfacing -used in fine tailoring -is far superior to fusibles when making suit jackets and diagonal tacking used to stitch the canvas to the suit will help the inner structure hold up better to wearing, dry cleaning and will make the suit look better. For backing and underlining fine evening fabrics that don't stand up the heat needed for a fusible, tacking to the underling is the only way to give the fabric enough support so it can be sewn into an evening bodice

Thread tracing or trace tacking is used to indicate seam-lines so you are sewing on the seam-lines, not beside them or inside them -this can throw off the fit by as much as a full size when multiplied across all the seams. This is why some patterns are still made and sold without seam allowances; fine dressmakers would thread trace around the pattern then cut. Thread tracing isn't used much anymore, not when there are so many chalk markers out there that are clean, fast, easy to use and leave no residues.

As you go along the applications of these tacking seams will be discussed such as for interfacings, underlings, pad stitching etc. Take your time to learn these seemingly time consuming techniques even if you don't plan on using them, they will enhance and elevate your skill level and give you an appreciation of fine high quality dressmaking and sewing; what the french call Haute Couture. You will notice a difference in even simple garments like a nightshirt pr pajamas once you understand the importance of marking and fitting. And you'll discover that seams match up better, notches line up, and the bottom edges of hems also are straight across rather than one side longer than the other.

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